🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. But, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.